Half Circle Skirt pt.2 ...

ZIPPER!
Play sound clip
You will begin by loosely stitching the two sides from the open 11 inches on the left side seam. Then place your zipper face down and then stitch that to your side seam. Place this zipper to that the teach of the zipper are just barely away from the crease in the seam. Pin the zipper to the fabric once this is completed.

Take your fabric and your pinned zipper to the machine and then carefully and I mean CAREFULLY sew a straight stitch with back stitching both ends as close to the teeth as possible. Oh, and did I mention that this is to be done with the fabric flipped back the right way, so the right side is facing out? You're doing this by feel ladies and gentlemen, I wish you good luck.

When you have reached the bottom of the teeth turn your fabric 90 degrees and stitch just an inch in the new direction going over the zipper. Then go back up the zipper on the other side.

Waistband
Flip your fabric inside out again and then line up the seam allowance on the waistband and the seam allowance at the waist opening. The fabric's wrong sides should face each other and fold down the extra bit of fabric over the skirt fabric and then tuck it in on itself so it is just below the seam allowance line. Go to the machine and sew the waistband. There will still be two end pieces to the waist band that will still be sticking out.

Fold those pieces so that there isn't any little tiny extra bits poking out on the side and stitch it down with a cross stitch.

Finally, add hook and bar closures on the end of the waistband. These closures should be placed in a way that when fastened neither of the pieces are visible.

You now have a skirt, enjoy! Or don't, you know. Your choice.

Half Circle Skirt Pt.1 ...

Making the Paper Pattern
While this process may seem daunting, the individual steps and skills required for them are simple... except for the zipper, zippers are not fun.

Let's get started!

First measure your waist, and sense this is over the Internet you don't need to feel self conscious about taking the measurement in front of anybody. Though because this is the internet maybe you should be worrying about me seeing you take the measurement through your webcam!
Just Kidding.
But seriously, be careful with the webcam stuff.

Once you have your waist measurement subtract one from that number. And no, I don't know why you have to subtract one, what I do know is that if you don't it wont work with this nifty little chart that helps you find the correct radius for your skirt.
This chart can be found on pg. 290 in the link below.

http://hadron.webd.pl/faszon/Helen%20Joseph-Armstrong%20Patternmaking%20for%20Fashion%20Design,%205th%20Edition%20%20%20%20%20%202009.pdf

make sure to read in the column 3 for 1/2 circle.
For example a waist measurement of 23 with the subtracted one comes to 22 and the chart tells me that with this numerical value that the radius of the skirt is 7 inches.

To physically make a pattern pin down a large slab of brown patterning paper and begin by squaring off a line. Then measure out the arc of the radius. Now measure out the desired length of your skirt from your waist curve, for our purposes as demonstration lets just say 18 inches. Mark out the arc of the skirt hem.

On your now cut out paper pattern you should label it with important information such as the name of pattern piece, your name, cutting information, seam allowances and grain information. For your information the pattern should be placed with the side edge parallel to the salvage edge.

Then create a waistband pattern. Measure the length of the waist band (waist measurement) and add a 2 inch extension for an overlap closure. Then the width of the waistband which should be 3/4 inch. Again, label this pattern.

The seam allowances for the skirt are:
Side seam - 1"
Hem - 2"
Waist curve - 3/4"
All around waistband - 1/2"
NO SEAM ALLOWANCE IS ADDED TO PATTERN!

Putting the Skirt Together
Pin your pattern down on to your fabric (the wrong side) making sure, of course, that the pattern is placed correctly on the fabric in relation to the grain. Then mark your seam allowance on the fabric Cut out your pattern twice for a front and a back. Do the same for the waist band but only cut one piece.

Then mark your seam allowance on your fabric pieces and pin along your marked seam allowance. Again, making sure that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Then go to the machine and sew a straight stitch on your seams, back stitch of course. Except for the left side seam where you will leave an 11 inch opening down from the waistline. This is wear the zipper will go.... oh the zipper.

One this has been completed thread mark your hemline with a cross stitch in a contrasting color to your fabric.

Masks, Commedia Masks ...

Masks? Well, why not? A costume does not necessarily need to be cloth draped in a fitted way around the body. A costume can be any external object that reflects and helps define a character, masks can certainly do that. Of course, there are styles of theatre that rely very heavily on masks, for example Commedia Dell’arte.

Commedia Dell’arte began in 16^th century Italy. This performance type called for stock scenarios and characters to tell a humorous, improvised story. These characters were symbolized by a very physical actor and with the masks they wore.

http://chucklewithsomething.wordpress.com/2012/05/18/commedia-dellarte-introduction-of-stock-characters/

So, I think we should make a Commedia mask and see what all the fuss is about.

We will begin by getting a plastic mask blank; everything will be built on this. Go online or find an image in text that shows a quality picture of a Commedia Dell’arte mask that you wish to recreate.

http://www.venetianartiquity.com/store/avactis-images/venetian-mask-commedia-dell-arte-pantalone_1.jpg

Now, get varied shaped foam pieces. I recommend some foam tubes or half tubes; these will be great for creating curvatures to cheeks and ridges.

Look at your image, if you need to cut your mask to make it look more like the shape on your image that is fine. Use a marker to draw on line that you can use as a reference fore your cutting. You will most likely have to cut around they eyes to make them bigger. Once you are done with this get some sandpaper and smooth down your rough edges from where you have just cut.

Sand paper is your friend

When you have these supplies experiment with your foam by cutting pieces up and placing them on your mask to see what you need to do to shape your mask to look like your Commedia image.

Once you feel like you have a game plan, go ahead and begin attaching and molding your foam by using hot glue. Make sure not place too much hot glue on your foam it might melt it.

THIS COULD HAPPEN TO YOU!
oh, wait...that's just chocolate.

You can attach the foam by applying a moderate amount of pressure against the mask for a few seconds.

This may take a while and that’s okay.

Now things are going to get a little messy.

Take your hands and place them in Sculpt-Or-Coat and put it on your mask, sealing any creases or gaps. Smooth out the coat, it makes things easier.

Mine

After letting the Sculpt-Or-Coat dry, take pieces of cheesecloth and place them over your mask so the pieces are overlapping. The cheesecloth will be secured by using glue past. The cheesecloth can also help you shape your mask further. Make sure you fold the cheesecloth around the edges of the mask. This includes the eyes.

Now, after the cheesecloth has dried, use acrylic paint to paint your mask in the style of your Commedia image.

On the inside of your mask you will place a felt lining and secure an elastic band to keep the mask on the face.

Pajama Pants (Pt. 2) ...

Continuing with Pajama pants or as my once five year old sister used to call them "Jam-jams". Although, admittedly, we are not crafting onesies.

Now that all you have assured your edges will not fray or cause massive threadage (And yes, that is now a word) place a back and a front leg piece together with the right sides face toward each other. NOTE: That you will need to use both RIGHT front and back or both LEFT front and back. Failure to do so will cause is a terrible mistake and tears from everyone.

Remember to always press your seam allowance after making a new seam.

Line up the outer edges and place pins along that length 5/8 of an inch from the edge of the fabric. After making sure your machine is threaded, and why wouldn't you if you were going to use it, adjust your fabric so you will be sewing 5/8 of an inch from the edge of your fabric. Sew along this path making sure to use back stitching at the beginning and ends of your seam. Repeat this with your other back and front pieces.

 Now do the same as before for the inseam but make sure you do not make a seam in the crotch. There will be some "bubbles" in the fabric and this is supposed to happen because the back sides are meant to be bigger.

Ready to move on?
Good.

Make sure one of your pant legs are inside out, place the pant leg that is rightside-out inside of the pant leg that is inside-out. It's not that complicated, I promise.

Line up the edges of the fabric in the crotch and place pins 5/8 an inch  from the edge, again this is where you will make your seam. Now MAKE the seam.

Now is the moment of truth....flip out the pant legs so they are righside-out....

Do they look like pants?
Good.

Now at the waist opening of the pants measure two inches down from the edge of the fabric and then fold inward to the inside of the pants - all the way around. Place pins in the fabric to keep it from shifting. Now go to the machine and sew as close to the finished edge of the fabric as you can but MAKE SURE to leave a two inch opening when you are finished. In other words you will be sewing all the way around the waist except for two inches.
 You will now want to measure your waist and then subtract two inches, this measurement is the length you will use to cut out your piece of elastic.

Now feed the elastic through the two inch opening. Once this is done close the two inch opening on the machine and where the two end pieces of elastic meet sew a box seam to insure it stays in place and will stretch.

Pajama Pants (Pt. 1) ...

And hello everyone! Let's embark on a journey of fabric and warmth and...pants. But not just ordinary pants, oh no, pajama pants. The collegiate's best friend, the garment of choice as it were. And what better way to appreciate such a bond a perpetually fatigued student has with his pajama bottoms than make a pair.

First, buy 100% cotton fabric that is three yards in length from The Joann's (Joann Fabrics). When home, or at a laundromat, or even in a creek make sure to wash your fabric before you begin cutting. This is to make sure that you get all the chemicals used to treat the fabric off, but more importantly this insures that the fabric has gotten its preliminary shrink out of the way.

cdn.pennypinchinmom.com/wp-content/uploads
The Joann's

When you are at The Joann's pick up the pattern you would like to use for your pajama pants, these patterns come in different sizes and IT DOES matter which one you choose. So measure your waist, and by waist I do not mean where you let your pants sag Guy In The Back - your true waist is just below the bellybutton.

FUN FACT: The bellybutton is clinically known as the umbilicus.

Now open up your pattern envelope. You will be inundated with all sorts of paper, do not panic this is perfectly normal everything will be just fine.

Because patterns usually come in packages, for example a pajama pants pattern will come with a shirt pattern or two, you will want to find the correct pattern pieces. These are well indicated.

Before you begin cutting out your pattern from the rest you may want to iron the paper to get out all of the creases and tiny wrinkles that are bound to be there. This is not necessary but might make your life easier down the road. Begin and complete the "laborious" task of cutting out your pattern along the thick black outlines (this project will include two leg pieces and an elastic band).

Iron out your fabric before you begin cutting.

The instructions for the pattern will indicate where along the fabric you should place your pattern pieces as to get the best possible use from the fabric.

Once your pattern pieces are set down in the correct way on your fabric cut out your pattern pieces. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO ADD SEAM ALLOWANCE!! It has been provided for your in the patterns

Done?...

Good!

Before you do anything else you will want to finish off the edges of your fabric pieces. The best way to do this is to use an overlock stitch. You can do this by using a serger, a frightening looking machine but one that is easy to use.

Line up your fabric so that just a little bit is close to the blade, it will be cut and that is okay.

If you have finished that then you have completed part one and are fast on your way to making a pair of lazy pants, I mean pajama pants.

Tech Sleeve - All Together Now ...

Tech Sleeve

Materials needed:

gadget (preferably a square one)

fabric: Fleece

kraft paper

ruler

scissors

tracing tool

pinking sheers

hidden snap set

fashion button

Everything that has been covered thus far can be used to create a simple item. A tech sleeve. What is a tech sleeve you ask? This is simply a fleece cover to hold and protect what ever gadget you desire, I am of course talking about something simple like a phone or tablet or small laptop.

FUN FACT: Fleece is also known as 'Polar wool', 'Vega wool', or "Velo wool'. These names suggest an organic origin when in reality fleece is made from Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET). In other words, synthetic fibers.

Ready to begin?
Once you have selected that gadget you will be using take measurements and be sure to right them down.
Take the measurements of the length and width of the gadget in inches.

Now get out a sheet of kraft paper and then measure out your device's lengths and widths AND add 1/2 inch on every length and width. When you are finished you will have an outline that is a 1/2 inch longer and a 1/2 inch wider than your gadget. NO seam allowance is added to your pattern!
Cut out your pattern.

You will now want to create a closure tab for your sleeve. On your kraft paper make a pattern that is 1 inch wide and 5 inch long.

Take your patterns over to your fabric and then trace them onto the fabric using a proper tracing tool. Trace your pattern once for your closure tab and twice for your sleeve. It will be best if you make sure to trace you patterns along the flow of the grain. To each outline add 1/2 in seam allowance with the aid of a ruler, you will not need to add seam allowance to the top of the sleeve. Cut out your outlines pieces - this is wear placing your pattern along the grain is helpful.
Trim the raw edges of your fabric pieces with pinking sheers. try to cut as little as you can and as uniformly as you can.

Attach the tab to one side of the sleeve using the sewing machine. Make sure that the side the tab is being sewn to is the right side of the fabric.

Now take your two pieces of fabric for the sleeve over to the machine and place the right sides of the fabric together so that the wrong sides are what is being seen. Sew along the line for seam allowance on three sides (the two sides and the bottom) and then use the bagging out method.

You can now finish the sleeve my hand sewing the snap set on and then the fashion button on top of your tab.

All done?
If so, place your gadget into it's new sleeve and admire your work.

It Seams To me ...

We've made it to seams! Let's dive right into it, shall we? Grab two pieces of muslin (or any fabric you want to use up) that are as close to the same dimensions as possible, for the point of this instruction you will most likely want to use pieces that are longer than they are wide.

To make things simpler, if you are using muslin, go ahead and mark on both pieces of muslin what side is going to represent the pattern side with squares or x's. This will be mentioned later as the "right" side
.
1. Plain Seam
Prepare your two pieces of fabric by marking on the "wrong" side (the side that does not have the patterns and where you will be stitching from) an inch from the side of the fabric along the whole length. This one inch is called your seam allowance- so you have room to adjust your seam if there needs to be a correction. You will stitch the seam on the lines you just marked.

Once both pieces of fabric are marked place them together so that the "wrong" sides are facing outward. Meaning, that the pattern sides of the two pieces of fabric with will facing eachother. Pin along the marked lines on the fabric so your pieces will stay in place.

Now that you are at your machine make sure there is no width to your stitching and that the length is about an average well, length (around a 2.5 or 3 on a Bernina). When pushing your fabric threw the machine do not forget to back stitch to lock them in. Then cut your tails for cosmetic reasons and then take your seamed fabric to the ironing station/board.

Lay out your fabric so that the patterned sides are facing down on the board and spread your seam allowance down. Steam them out.

2. Curved Seam
Instead of drawing a straight line down the length of the fabric you will create a half circle that is "cut off" on the length of the fabric. To recreate this exact half circle on your second piece of fabric you will need to use waxing paper (not plain old wax paper, the kind that is used for marking) and place the paper between your pieces of fabric. Then use a tracing wheel to have the wax stick to the second piece of fabric.

Once you have an accurate trace if your half circle place them back to back as before with the plain seam so that the pattern sides are facing eachother. Make sure to mark one inch out from your marked circle and then cut along that line that has marked your seam allowance. Pin along your marked lines so your fabric will stay in place and so you will have a more accurate stitchline

When you are at your machine set it so you will have z-g-zag stitching and sew along your marked line (all the while taking your pins out, of course).

After you have back stitched and cut off your tails head over to the ironing station/board. Flip out your fabric so your pattern side is facing outward and then steam your fabric.

Gathering ...

Do you want to know how to make ruffles in fabric? Of course you do, otherwise you wouldn't be looking at this bloody blog! The process is simpler than you would think and you can start by grabbing a piece of muslin (or other scrap of fabric you don't mind using up) and heading over to your sewing machine.

Fun Fact: Did you know that in costume shops and studios a garment's maker will often use muslin to make pieces of a garment or even a whole garment before cutting the intended fabric? This is to test the fit of the garment, so instead of using the more expensive materials on what might not be the right fit muslin is used as an inexpensive test garment.

1. Using a straight stitch 
Making sure your machine is threaded and ready for use ...
"But how do I know my machine is ready? And I don't know how to thread a sewing machine!" Oh, look, it's The Guy In The Back who's now pretending feigned interest after last week's post on Industrial Iron's got him all hot and bothered. Don't worry Guy In The Back and new readers, you can learn all about how to thread a sewing machine in last week's posts.

Now that your machine is good and threaded and your muslin is placed under the presser foot take a look at your dials or knobs on your machine. Make sure that you have no width to your stitches, as this will create a zig-zag and you will not be able to do what I am showing you resulting in tears by all. Next, you'll want to adjust your stitch length and make it the longest you can - this will make the process easier later on.

Now sew a straight line down the length of your muslin scrap without any back stitching. I repeat, NO BACK STITCHING: this will make the rest of the process impossible which will go a head and assume will make you mad, hulk out, and then throw your machine out the window.

After you've sewn your line of stitching leave your self some tails on the ends of your fabric, you'll cut them later but you'll need them now.

take hold of your bottom thread and gently slide your fabric away from the end you are holding the thread.

sew4home.com/sites/sewmk.mervideo.com/files/images_04_pulling_threads_to_make_ruffles
It's that simple!

You have now successfully learned how to gather on a straight stitch. What, I told you it would be easy.

After you've gather the appropriate amount of fabric you need cut the tails of your threads or cosmetic reasons.

2. Using a Zig-Zag over a hymark
To gather using a zig-zag stitch  you'll need to proceed just as before only this time you'll begin your straight stitch with hymark thread (a heavy cord-like thread).

Instead of gathering after you've completed your straight stitch you're going to march right back to the machine and use standard thread for your zig-zag stitching. make sure your stitch length is set to the widest possible so you can have a wide zig-zag. Thread all the way down and over your hymark stitching and you will, again, leave a tail.

As before you'll pull on the hymark bottom thread and begin to gather.

sew4home.com/sites/sewmk.mervideo.com/files/images_05_zigzag_stitch_over_drawstring.png
It really is that simple...

Now, go gather to your hearts content.
Not you, Guy In The Back...I'll see you after class.

Machine sewing: The Beginnings

Let's be honest. Sewing to the inexperienced can be scary, I know this because I am one and I am a little terrified. And what's more is that there is this machine that is supposed to make every sewer's life easier but It looks and feels like you need a technical degree just to operate it.
While I can tell you that a sewing machine is not that scary nor is it as hard to operate as it would seem, there are a few things that you need to know in order to operate them.
For example you'll need to know what a bobbin is.
This is a bobbin:

A bobbin is a small thread spool that comes from below the needle to complete the stitch on the underside. The bobbin needs to be threaded so let's start there. Place your spool of thread onto the spool pin located at the top of the machine. Take the thread and take it around a metal bit that is used to keep the threat tight while the bobbin the spun. The wrap the thread around the bobbin a few times and place the bobbin in the bobbin winder and make sure it is secured. Making sure that your needle us up and the foot is locked push down on the foot pedal to spin your bobbin allowing it to gain thread.

Once you have enough thread on your bobbin cut the thread that is still connected to the spool and take the bobbin off the winder. In the lower portion of the machine under the needle is the case for the bobbin. Open the bobbin case and place the bobbin inside making sure to leave the tail out and place in the right position so it can be threaded through the needle.

Your bobbin is set but now you need to thread your top thread into your needle. Take the tail of your thread from your spool having never left the spool pin and take your thread over and down to your thread guide. Then take your thread over and up to the thread take-up and then down to be placed in the eye of the needle.

See, not as scary.

Now thread your bottom thread and you are ready to sew.

Two easy stitches are the straight stitch and the zig-zag stitch. These stitches can be achieved by switching your Stitch Width regulator and your stitch length regulator.

After making sure your needle and presser foot is down over the fabric and unlock press the foot pedal to control the speed of the stitch.

To lock in the stitch, reverse the stitch for a few stitches at the beginning and end of your work.

Industrial Iron

Let's talk iron. Or rather ironing. It is something we all do or at least have done at some point. There has been that one wrinkle that one crease that will just not stay down, on stage this could be problematic. You see, on stage a character's clothing is an extension of who they are a more visual representation of what a character is like on the inside and out. So an extremely noticeable crease could send the wrong message (or mixed messages) as well as not looking the best. Thankfully, there is hope. Yes, there is a light that shines bright in the dark world of frumpy clothing! A Gravity Feed Iron ...
Even the name seems to have weight when you hear or say it

But what exactly is this marvelous device, you ask? Well I will tell you; even you "guy in the back" who is unsuccessfully masking his joy with disregard. A gravity feed iron is an industrial strength iron that is used in most if not all costume shops and studios because of it's dependability and extended longevity.
The iron gets its name from having it's water supply in a hanging reservoir and having gravity direct the flow.

The iron itself, being heavy-duty industrial quality, weighs in at an average of four pounds. This leaves the user to apply less pressure on the garment and using the weight of the iron itself.

apparelmachinery.com/productimages/Naomoto_HYS-58

The hanging reservoir holds four liters and has a bag filled with resin, a demineralizer, so to further extend the life of the iron an minimize calcium buildup. The handle of the iron has a steam twitch that allows the valve to open and the hose to fill with water allowing the iron to superheat with the water and create the steam.

http://s3.amazonaws.com/RFSupply/sapporo-system.jpg

How do I use this spectacular machine? Well, it that is simple.

1. Hang bottle approximately forty inches above the ironing surface
2. Connect the silicon hose to the iron and the bottle
3. Empty demineralizer package into the bottle and fill it with tap water
4. Plug the iron cord into a grounded electrical socket
5. Set the temperature dial
6. Open the bottle valve and allow the hose to fill with water by pressing the steam switch. The iron is now ready to use!
7. When not pressing, place iron on a silicon pad.

You can purchase many number of Gravity feed systems however the price is a little high, however, when dealing with an extensive costume reserve and the demand to quick complete fixes this iron is a sound investment.

Fastenings ...

Unless you are in a unitard or a one piece, 

or in an obnoxiously colored spandex suite

the chances that your costume is going to have some sort of fasten is pretty high. Whether they are the snaps on contemporary blue-jeans or clamping apparatus's from the nineteenth century it is easy to forget just how much we depend on them to keep others from seeing our pink spotted underwear.

On stage we depend on these types of safeguards just as much as anyone else does in society, so in the costume studio it is important to understand how one would secure these small accessories to our outerwear.

1. Hook and Bar

These types of fastenings are generally used at single points like near the waistband thought they can also be used to to close entire openings.

When deciding where to place these items on your fabric or clothing item it is important to remember not place them too close to the edges as this may  result in leaving a space or gap between your fabrics. Similarly you would not want to place them too far away from the edge of the fabric as this could lead to an uncomfortable actor in, now, too tight pants.

Once you are ready to begin sewing remember that you will want to double thread your needle, giving  the stitch more strength against the forces acting against the fasten.

TIP: Make sure you place a knot at the end of your now double threaded thread. It took me nearly a whole minute to figure out as to why my own thread was not making to proper stitch like everyone else...save yourself the embarrassment.

You will want to first sew the loops (or eyes) on the ends of both the hook and bar. Begin threading from the opposite side of the fabric from your hook or bar and loop with your thread around the curvature at the ends. Repeat five or six times (possibly more if you feel the hook or bar in not fastened tight enough) and then knot off the end of your thread once it has been cut.

Secured bar.
(Don't mind the little extra bit of thread, a bit of a mishap.)

For the hook you will want to loop an extra few times around the long end of the small piece of metal, this is so it can be better secured.

Secured Hook.

Once this is complete you or your actor can then fasten and unfasten your pants just as much as you like. Though preferably in private.

2. Snap Set

I quite enjoy snaps. Though this may possibly have nothing to do with sewing than as it does with the sound your voice makes when you say it. 

In any case.

Snaps are used, generally, on clothing such as jackets and the like and are rarely visible once fastened. The set has two items a ball and a socket, or if you prefer a male and a female. Because the male (Ball) has an extension that  resembles...well, you know; and the female (socket) has an resembles...you know, the other thing.

When you are ready to secure these pieces into the fabric you will once again double thread your needle (be sure to knot it, we know where that can lead us). As with the eyes of the hook and bar you will want to loop the open spaced and the outer rim of the item as well as repeat five to six times. When moving from space to space that needs to be looped make sure you begin from the underside of your item and not going over it.

Ball

Socket