ZIPPER!
Play sound clip
You will begin by loosely stitching the two sides from the open 11 inches on the left side seam. Then place your zipper face down and then stitch that to your side seam. Place this zipper to that the teach of the zipper are just barely away from the crease in the seam. Pin the zipper to the fabric once this is completed.
Take your fabric and your pinned zipper to the machine and then carefully and I mean CAREFULLY sew a straight stitch with back stitching both ends as close to the teeth as possible. Oh, and did I mention that this is to be done with the fabric flipped back the right way, so the right side is facing out? You're doing this by feel ladies and gentlemen, I wish you good luck.
When you have reached the bottom of the teeth turn your fabric 90 degrees and stitch just an inch in the new direction going over the zipper. Then go back up the zipper on the other side.
Waistband
Flip your fabric inside out again and then line up the seam allowance on the waistband and the seam allowance at the waist opening. The fabric's wrong sides should face each other and fold down the extra bit of fabric over the skirt fabric and then tuck it in on itself so it is just below the seam allowance line. Go to the machine and sew the waistband. There will still be two end pieces to the waist band that will still be sticking out.
Fold those pieces so that there isn't any little tiny extra bits poking out on the side and stitch it down with a cross stitch.
Finally, add hook and bar closures on the end of the waistband. These closures should be placed in a way that when fastened neither of the pieces are visible.
You now have a skirt, enjoy! Or don't, you know. Your choice.
Wednesday, December 18, 2013
Half Circle Skirt Pt.1 ...
Making the Paper Pattern
While this process may seem daunting, the individual steps and skills required for them are simple... except for the zipper, zippers are not fun.
Let's get started!
First measure your waist, and sense this is over the Internet you don't need to feel self conscious about taking the measurement in front of anybody. Though because this is the internet maybe you should be worrying about me seeing you take the measurement through your webcam!
Just Kidding.
But seriously, be careful with the webcam stuff.
Once you have your waist measurement subtract one from that number. And no, I don't know why you have to subtract one, what I do know is that if you don't it wont work with this nifty little chart that helps you find the correct radius for your skirt.
This chart can be found on pg. 290 in the link below.
http://hadron.webd.pl/faszon/Helen%20Joseph-Armstrong%20Patternmaking%20for%20Fashion%20Design,%205th%20Edition%20%20%20%20%20%202009.pdf
make sure to read in the column 3 for 1/2 circle.
For example a waist measurement of 23 with the subtracted one comes to 22 and the chart tells me that with this numerical value that the radius of the skirt is 7 inches.
To physically make a pattern pin down a large slab of brown patterning paper and begin by squaring off a line. Then measure out the arc of the radius. Now measure out the desired length of your skirt from your waist curve, for our purposes as demonstration lets just say 18 inches. Mark out the arc of the skirt hem.
On your now cut out paper pattern you should label it with important information such as the name of pattern piece, your name, cutting information, seam allowances and grain information. For your information the pattern should be placed with the side edge parallel to the salvage edge.
Then create a waistband pattern. Measure the length of the waist band (waist measurement) and add a 2 inch extension for an overlap closure. Then the width of the waistband which should be 3/4 inch. Again, label this pattern.
The seam allowances for the skirt are:
Side seam - 1"
Hem - 2"
Waist curve - 3/4"
All around waistband - 1/2"
NO SEAM ALLOWANCE IS ADDED TO PATTERN!
Putting the Skirt Together
Pin your pattern down on to your fabric (the wrong side) making sure, of course, that the pattern is placed correctly on the fabric in relation to the grain. Then mark your seam allowance on the fabric Cut out your pattern twice for a front and a back. Do the same for the waist band but only cut one piece.
Then mark your seam allowance on your fabric pieces and pin along your marked seam allowance. Again, making sure that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Then go to the machine and sew a straight stitch on your seams, back stitch of course. Except for the left side seam where you will leave an 11 inch opening down from the waistline. This is wear the zipper will go.... oh the zipper.
One this has been completed thread mark your hemline with a cross stitch in a contrasting color to your fabric.
While this process may seem daunting, the individual steps and skills required for them are simple... except for the zipper, zippers are not fun.
Let's get started!
First measure your waist, and sense this is over the Internet you don't need to feel self conscious about taking the measurement in front of anybody. Though because this is the internet maybe you should be worrying about me seeing you take the measurement through your webcam!
Just Kidding.
But seriously, be careful with the webcam stuff.
Once you have your waist measurement subtract one from that number. And no, I don't know why you have to subtract one, what I do know is that if you don't it wont work with this nifty little chart that helps you find the correct radius for your skirt.
This chart can be found on pg. 290 in the link below.
http://hadron.webd.pl/faszon/Helen%20Joseph-Armstrong%20Patternmaking%20for%20Fashion%20Design,%205th%20Edition%20%20%20%20%20%202009.pdf
make sure to read in the column 3 for 1/2 circle.
For example a waist measurement of 23 with the subtracted one comes to 22 and the chart tells me that with this numerical value that the radius of the skirt is 7 inches.
To physically make a pattern pin down a large slab of brown patterning paper and begin by squaring off a line. Then measure out the arc of the radius. Now measure out the desired length of your skirt from your waist curve, for our purposes as demonstration lets just say 18 inches. Mark out the arc of the skirt hem.
On your now cut out paper pattern you should label it with important information such as the name of pattern piece, your name, cutting information, seam allowances and grain information. For your information the pattern should be placed with the side edge parallel to the salvage edge.
Then create a waistband pattern. Measure the length of the waist band (waist measurement) and add a 2 inch extension for an overlap closure. Then the width of the waistband which should be 3/4 inch. Again, label this pattern.
The seam allowances for the skirt are:
Side seam - 1"
Hem - 2"
Waist curve - 3/4"
All around waistband - 1/2"
NO SEAM ALLOWANCE IS ADDED TO PATTERN!
Putting the Skirt Together
Pin your pattern down on to your fabric (the wrong side) making sure, of course, that the pattern is placed correctly on the fabric in relation to the grain. Then mark your seam allowance on the fabric Cut out your pattern twice for a front and a back. Do the same for the waist band but only cut one piece.
Then mark your seam allowance on your fabric pieces and pin along your marked seam allowance. Again, making sure that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Then go to the machine and sew a straight stitch on your seams, back stitch of course. Except for the left side seam where you will leave an 11 inch opening down from the waistline. This is wear the zipper will go.... oh the zipper.
One this has been completed thread mark your hemline with a cross stitch in a contrasting color to your fabric.
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