ZIPPER!
Play sound clip
You will begin by loosely stitching the two sides from the open 11 inches on the left side seam. Then place your zipper face down and then stitch that to your side seam. Place this zipper to that the teach of the zipper are just barely away from the crease in the seam. Pin the zipper to the fabric once this is completed.
Take your fabric and your pinned zipper to the machine and then carefully and I mean CAREFULLY sew a straight stitch with back stitching both ends as close to the teeth as possible. Oh, and did I mention that this is to be done with the fabric flipped back the right way, so the right side is facing out? You're doing this by feel ladies and gentlemen, I wish you good luck.
When you have reached the bottom of the teeth turn your fabric 90 degrees and stitch just an inch in the new direction going over the zipper. Then go back up the zipper on the other side.
Waistband
Flip your fabric inside out again and then line up the seam allowance on the waistband and the seam allowance at the waist opening. The fabric's wrong sides should face each other and fold down the extra bit of fabric over the skirt fabric and then tuck it in on itself so it is just below the seam allowance line. Go to the machine and sew the waistband. There will still be two end pieces to the waist band that will still be sticking out.
Fold those pieces so that there isn't any little tiny extra bits poking out on the side and stitch it down with a cross stitch.
Finally, add hook and bar closures on the end of the waistband. These closures should be placed in a way that when fastened neither of the pieces are visible.
You now have a skirt, enjoy! Or don't, you know. Your choice.
Wednesday, December 18, 2013
Half Circle Skirt Pt.1 ...
Making the Paper Pattern
While this process may seem daunting, the individual steps and skills required for them are simple... except for the zipper, zippers are not fun.
Let's get started!
First measure your waist, and sense this is over the Internet you don't need to feel self conscious about taking the measurement in front of anybody. Though because this is the internet maybe you should be worrying about me seeing you take the measurement through your webcam!
Just Kidding.
But seriously, be careful with the webcam stuff.
Once you have your waist measurement subtract one from that number. And no, I don't know why you have to subtract one, what I do know is that if you don't it wont work with this nifty little chart that helps you find the correct radius for your skirt.
This chart can be found on pg. 290 in the link below.
http://hadron.webd.pl/faszon/Helen%20Joseph-Armstrong%20Patternmaking%20for%20Fashion%20Design,%205th%20Edition%20%20%20%20%20%202009.pdf
make sure to read in the column 3 for 1/2 circle.
For example a waist measurement of 23 with the subtracted one comes to 22 and the chart tells me that with this numerical value that the radius of the skirt is 7 inches.
To physically make a pattern pin down a large slab of brown patterning paper and begin by squaring off a line. Then measure out the arc of the radius. Now measure out the desired length of your skirt from your waist curve, for our purposes as demonstration lets just say 18 inches. Mark out the arc of the skirt hem.
On your now cut out paper pattern you should label it with important information such as the name of pattern piece, your name, cutting information, seam allowances and grain information. For your information the pattern should be placed with the side edge parallel to the salvage edge.
Then create a waistband pattern. Measure the length of the waist band (waist measurement) and add a 2 inch extension for an overlap closure. Then the width of the waistband which should be 3/4 inch. Again, label this pattern.
The seam allowances for the skirt are:
Side seam - 1"
Hem - 2"
Waist curve - 3/4"
All around waistband - 1/2"
NO SEAM ALLOWANCE IS ADDED TO PATTERN!
Putting the Skirt Together
Pin your pattern down on to your fabric (the wrong side) making sure, of course, that the pattern is placed correctly on the fabric in relation to the grain. Then mark your seam allowance on the fabric Cut out your pattern twice for a front and a back. Do the same for the waist band but only cut one piece.
Then mark your seam allowance on your fabric pieces and pin along your marked seam allowance. Again, making sure that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Then go to the machine and sew a straight stitch on your seams, back stitch of course. Except for the left side seam where you will leave an 11 inch opening down from the waistline. This is wear the zipper will go.... oh the zipper.
One this has been completed thread mark your hemline with a cross stitch in a contrasting color to your fabric.
While this process may seem daunting, the individual steps and skills required for them are simple... except for the zipper, zippers are not fun.
Let's get started!
First measure your waist, and sense this is over the Internet you don't need to feel self conscious about taking the measurement in front of anybody. Though because this is the internet maybe you should be worrying about me seeing you take the measurement through your webcam!
Just Kidding.
But seriously, be careful with the webcam stuff.
Once you have your waist measurement subtract one from that number. And no, I don't know why you have to subtract one, what I do know is that if you don't it wont work with this nifty little chart that helps you find the correct radius for your skirt.
This chart can be found on pg. 290 in the link below.
http://hadron.webd.pl/faszon/Helen%20Joseph-Armstrong%20Patternmaking%20for%20Fashion%20Design,%205th%20Edition%20%20%20%20%20%202009.pdf
make sure to read in the column 3 for 1/2 circle.
For example a waist measurement of 23 with the subtracted one comes to 22 and the chart tells me that with this numerical value that the radius of the skirt is 7 inches.
To physically make a pattern pin down a large slab of brown patterning paper and begin by squaring off a line. Then measure out the arc of the radius. Now measure out the desired length of your skirt from your waist curve, for our purposes as demonstration lets just say 18 inches. Mark out the arc of the skirt hem.
On your now cut out paper pattern you should label it with important information such as the name of pattern piece, your name, cutting information, seam allowances and grain information. For your information the pattern should be placed with the side edge parallel to the salvage edge.
Then create a waistband pattern. Measure the length of the waist band (waist measurement) and add a 2 inch extension for an overlap closure. Then the width of the waistband which should be 3/4 inch. Again, label this pattern.
The seam allowances for the skirt are:
Side seam - 1"
Hem - 2"
Waist curve - 3/4"
All around waistband - 1/2"
NO SEAM ALLOWANCE IS ADDED TO PATTERN!
Putting the Skirt Together
Pin your pattern down on to your fabric (the wrong side) making sure, of course, that the pattern is placed correctly on the fabric in relation to the grain. Then mark your seam allowance on the fabric Cut out your pattern twice for a front and a back. Do the same for the waist band but only cut one piece.
Then mark your seam allowance on your fabric pieces and pin along your marked seam allowance. Again, making sure that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Then go to the machine and sew a straight stitch on your seams, back stitch of course. Except for the left side seam where you will leave an 11 inch opening down from the waistline. This is wear the zipper will go.... oh the zipper.
One this has been completed thread mark your hemline with a cross stitch in a contrasting color to your fabric.
Sunday, November 17, 2013
Masks, Commedia Masks ...
Masks? Well, why not? A costume does not necessarily need to
be cloth draped in a fitted way around the body. A costume can be any external
object that reflects and helps define a character, masks can certainly do that.
Of course, there are styles of theatre that rely very heavily on masks, for
example Commedia Dell’arte.
Commedia Dell’arte began in 16th century Italy.
This performance type called for stock scenarios and characters to tell a
humorous, improvised story. These characters were symbolized by a very physical
actor and with the masks they wore.
 |
| http://chucklewithsomething.wordpress.com/2012/05/18/commedia-dellarte-introduction-of-stock-characters/ |
So, I think we should make a Commedia mask and see what all
the fuss is about.
We will begin by getting a plastic mask blank; everything
will be built on this. Go online or find an image in text that shows a quality
picture of a Commedia Dell’arte mask that you wish to recreate.
 |
| http://www.venetianartiquity.com/store/avactis-images/venetian-mask-commedia-dell-arte-pantalone_1.jpg |
Now, get varied shaped foam pieces. I recommend some foam
tubes or half tubes; these will be great for creating curvatures to cheeks and
ridges.
Look at your image, if you need to cut your mask to make it
look more like the shape on your image that is fine. Use a marker to draw on
line that you can use as a reference fore your cutting. You will most likely
have to cut around they eyes to make them bigger. Once you are done with this
get some sandpaper and smooth down your rough edges from where you have just
cut.
 |
| Sand paper is your friend |
When you have these supplies experiment with your foam by
cutting pieces up and placing them on your mask to see what you need to do to
shape your mask to look like your Commedia image.
Once you feel like you have a game plan, go ahead and begin
attaching and molding your foam by using hot glue. Make sure not place too much
hot glue on your foam it might melt it.
 |
| THIS COULD HAPPEN TO YOU! oh, wait...that's just chocolate. |
You can attach the foam by applying a moderate amount of
pressure against the mask for a few seconds.
This may take a while and that’s okay.
Now things are going to get a little messy.
Take your hands and place them in Sculpt-Or-Coat and put it
on your mask, sealing any creases or gaps. Smooth out the coat, it makes things
easier.
 |
| Mine |
After letting the Sculpt-Or-Coat dry, take pieces of
cheesecloth and place them over your mask so the pieces are overlapping. The
cheesecloth will be secured by using glue past. The cheesecloth can also help
you shape your mask further. Make sure you fold the cheesecloth around the
edges of the mask. This includes the eyes.
Now, after the cheesecloth has dried, use acrylic paint to
paint your mask in the style of your Commedia image.
On the inside of your mask you will place a felt lining and
secure an elastic band to keep the mask on the face.
Sunday, November 3, 2013
Pajama Pants (Pt. 2) ...
Continuing with Pajama pants or as my once five year old sister used to call them "Jam-jams". Although, admittedly, we are not crafting onesies.
Now that all you have assured your edges will not fray or cause massive threadage (And yes, that is now a word) place a back and a front leg piece together with the right sides face toward each other. NOTE: That you will need to use both RIGHT front and back or both LEFT front and back. Failure to do so will cause is a terrible mistake and tears from everyone.
Remember to always press your seam allowance after making a new seam.
Line up the outer edges and place pins along that length 5/8 of an inch from the edge of the fabric. After making sure your machine is threaded, and why wouldn't you if you were going to use it, adjust your fabric so you will be sewing 5/8 of an inch from the edge of your fabric. Sew along this path making sure to use back stitching at the beginning and ends of your seam. Repeat this with your other back and front pieces.
Now do the same as before for the inseam but make sure you do not make a seam in the crotch. There will be some "bubbles" in the fabric and this is supposed to happen because the back sides are meant to be bigger.
Ready to move on?
Good.
Make sure one of your pant legs are inside out, place the pant leg that is rightside-out inside of the pant leg that is inside-out. It's not that complicated, I promise.
Line up the edges of the fabric in the crotch and place pins 5/8 an inch from the edge, again this is where you will make your seam. Now MAKE the seam.
Now is the moment of truth....flip out the pant legs so they are righside-out....
Do they look like pants?
Good.
Now at the waist opening of the pants measure two inches down from the edge of the fabric and then fold inward to the inside of the pants - all the way around. Place pins in the fabric to keep it from shifting. Now go to the machine and sew as close to the finished edge of the fabric as you can but MAKE SURE to leave a two inch opening when you are finished. In other words you will be sewing all the way around the waist except for two inches.
You will now want to measure your waist and then subtract two inches, this measurement is the length you will use to cut out your piece of elastic.
Now feed the elastic through the two inch opening. Once this is done close the two inch opening on the machine and where the two end pieces of elastic meet sew a box seam to insure it stays in place and will stretch.
Remember to always press your seam allowance after making a new seam.
Line up the outer edges and place pins along that length 5/8 of an inch from the edge of the fabric. After making sure your machine is threaded, and why wouldn't you if you were going to use it, adjust your fabric so you will be sewing 5/8 of an inch from the edge of your fabric. Sew along this path making sure to use back stitching at the beginning and ends of your seam. Repeat this with your other back and front pieces.
Now do the same as before for the inseam but make sure you do not make a seam in the crotch. There will be some "bubbles" in the fabric and this is supposed to happen because the back sides are meant to be bigger.
Ready to move on?
Good.
Make sure one of your pant legs are inside out, place the pant leg that is rightside-out inside of the pant leg that is inside-out. It's not that complicated, I promise.
Line up the edges of the fabric in the crotch and place pins 5/8 an inch from the edge, again this is where you will make your seam. Now MAKE the seam.
Now is the moment of truth....flip out the pant legs so they are righside-out....
Do they look like pants?
Good.
Now at the waist opening of the pants measure two inches down from the edge of the fabric and then fold inward to the inside of the pants - all the way around. Place pins in the fabric to keep it from shifting. Now go to the machine and sew as close to the finished edge of the fabric as you can but MAKE SURE to leave a two inch opening when you are finished. In other words you will be sewing all the way around the waist except for two inches.
You will now want to measure your waist and then subtract two inches, this measurement is the length you will use to cut out your piece of elastic.
Now feed the elastic through the two inch opening. Once this is done close the two inch opening on the machine and where the two end pieces of elastic meet sew a box seam to insure it stays in place and will stretch.
Sunday, October 27, 2013
Pajama Pants (Pt. 1) ...
And hello everyone! Let's embark on a journey of fabric and warmth and...pants. But not just ordinary pants, oh no, pajama pants. The collegiate's best friend, the garment of choice as it were. And what better way to appreciate such a bond a perpetually fatigued student has with his pajama bottoms than make a pair.
First, buy 100% cotton fabric that is three yards in length from The Joann's (Joann Fabrics). When home, or at a laundromat, or even in a creek make sure to wash your fabric before you begin cutting. This is to make sure that you get all the chemicals used to treat the fabric off, but more importantly this insures that the fabric has gotten its preliminary shrink out of the way.
When you are at The Joann's pick up the pattern you would like to use for your pajama pants, these patterns come in different sizes and IT DOES matter which one you choose. So measure your waist, and by waist I do not mean where you let your pants sag Guy In The Back - your true waist is just below the bellybutton.
First, buy 100% cotton fabric that is three yards in length from The Joann's (Joann Fabrics). When home, or at a laundromat, or even in a creek make sure to wash your fabric before you begin cutting. This is to make sure that you get all the chemicals used to treat the fabric off, but more importantly this insures that the fabric has gotten its preliminary shrink out of the way.
 |
| cdn.pennypinchinmom.com/wp-content/uploads The Joann's |
FUN FACT: The bellybutton is clinically known as the umbilicus.
Now open up your pattern envelope. You will be inundated with all sorts of paper, do not panic this is perfectly normal everything will be just fine.
Because patterns usually come in packages, for example a pajama pants pattern will come with a shirt pattern or two, you will want to find the correct pattern pieces. These are well indicated.
Before you begin cutting out your pattern from the rest you may want to iron the paper to get out all of the creases and tiny wrinkles that are bound to be there. This is not necessary but might make your life easier down the road. Begin and complete the "laborious" task of cutting out your pattern along the thick black outlines (this project will include two leg pieces and an elastic band).
Iron out your fabric before you begin cutting.
The instructions for the pattern will indicate where along the fabric you should place your pattern pieces as to get the best possible use from the fabric.
Once your pattern pieces are set down in the correct way on your fabric cut out your pattern pieces. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO ADD SEAM ALLOWANCE!! It has been provided for your in the patterns
Done?...
Good!
Before you do anything else you will want to finish off the edges of your fabric pieces. The best way to do this is to use an overlock stitch. You can do this by using a serger, a frightening looking machine but one that is easy to use.
Line up your fabric so that just a little bit is close to the blade, it will be cut and that is okay.
If you have finished that then you have completed part one and are fast on your way to making a pair of lazy pants, I mean pajama pants.
Sunday, October 13, 2013
Tech Sleeve - All Together Now ...
Tech Sleeve
Materials needed:
gadget (preferably a square one)
fabric: Fleece
kraft paper
ruler
scissors
tracing tool
pinking sheers
hidden snap set
fashion button
Everything that has been covered thus far can be used to create a simple item. A tech sleeve. What is a tech sleeve you ask? This is simply a fleece cover to hold and protect what ever gadget you desire, I am of course talking about something simple like a phone or tablet or small laptop.
FUN FACT: Fleece is also known as 'Polar wool', 'Vega wool', or "Velo wool'. These names suggest an organic origin when in reality fleece is made from Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET). In other words, synthetic fibers.
Ready to begin?
Once you have selected that gadget you will be using take measurements and be sure to right them down.
Take the measurements of the length and width of the gadget in inches.
Now get out a sheet of kraft paper and then measure out your device's lengths and widths AND add 1/2 inch on every length and width. When you are finished you will have an outline that is a 1/2 inch longer and a 1/2 inch wider than your gadget. NO seam allowance is added to your pattern!
Cut out your pattern.
You will now want to create a closure tab for your sleeve. On your kraft paper make a pattern that is 1 inch wide and 5 inch long.
Take your patterns over to your fabric and then trace them onto the fabric using a proper tracing tool. Trace your pattern once for your closure tab and twice for your sleeve. It will be best if you make sure to trace you patterns along the flow of the grain. To each outline add 1/2 in seam allowance with the aid of a ruler, you will not need to add seam allowance to the top of the sleeve. Cut out your outlines pieces - this is wear placing your pattern along the grain is helpful.
Trim the raw edges of your fabric pieces with pinking sheers. try to cut as little as you can and as uniformly as you can.
Attach the tab to one side of the sleeve using the sewing machine. Make sure that the side the tab is being sewn to is the right side of the fabric.
Now take your two pieces of fabric for the sleeve over to the machine and place the right sides of the fabric together so that the wrong sides are what is being seen. Sew along the line for seam allowance on three sides (the two sides and the bottom) and then use the bagging out method.
You can now finish the sleeve my hand sewing the snap set on and then the fashion button on top of your tab.
All done?
If so, place your gadget into it's new sleeve and admire your work.
Sunday, October 6, 2013
It Seams To me ...
We've made it to seams! Let's dive right into it, shall we? Grab two pieces of muslin (or any fabric you want to use up) that are as close to the same dimensions as possible, for the point of this instruction you will most likely want to use pieces that are longer than they are wide.
To make things simpler, if you are using muslin, go ahead and mark on both pieces of muslin what side is going to represent the pattern side with squares or x's. This will be mentioned later as the "right" side
.
1. Plain Seam
Prepare your two pieces of fabric by marking on the "wrong" side (the side that does not have the patterns and where you will be stitching from) an inch from the side of the fabric along the whole length. This one inch is called your seam allowance- so you have room to adjust your seam if there needs to be a correction. You will stitch the seam on the lines you just marked.
Once both pieces of fabric are marked place them together so that the "wrong" sides are facing outward. Meaning, that the pattern sides of the two pieces of fabric with will facing eachother. Pin along the marked lines on the fabric so your pieces will stay in place.
Now that you are at your machine make sure there is no width to your stitching and that the length is about an average well, length (around a 2.5 or 3 on a Bernina). When pushing your fabric threw the machine do not forget to back stitch to lock them in. Then cut your tails for cosmetic reasons and then take your seamed fabric to the ironing station/board.
Lay out your fabric so that the patterned sides are facing down on the board and spread your seam allowance down. Steam them out.
2. Curved Seam
Instead of drawing a straight line down the length of the fabric you will create a half circle that is "cut off" on the length of the fabric. To recreate this exact half circle on your second piece of fabric you will need to use waxing paper (not plain old wax paper, the kind that is used for marking) and place the paper between your pieces of fabric. Then use a tracing wheel to have the wax stick to the second piece of fabric.
Once you have an accurate trace if your half circle place them back to back as before with the plain seam so that the pattern sides are facing eachother. Make sure to mark one inch out from your marked circle and then cut along that line that has marked your seam allowance. Pin along your marked lines so your fabric will stay in place and so you will have a more accurate stitchline
When you are at your machine set it so you will have z-g-zag stitching and sew along your marked line (all the while taking your pins out, of course).
After you have back stitched and cut off your tails head over to the ironing station/board. Flip out your fabric so your pattern side is facing outward and then steam your fabric.
To make things simpler, if you are using muslin, go ahead and mark on both pieces of muslin what side is going to represent the pattern side with squares or x's. This will be mentioned later as the "right" side
.
1. Plain Seam
Prepare your two pieces of fabric by marking on the "wrong" side (the side that does not have the patterns and where you will be stitching from) an inch from the side of the fabric along the whole length. This one inch is called your seam allowance- so you have room to adjust your seam if there needs to be a correction. You will stitch the seam on the lines you just marked.
Once both pieces of fabric are marked place them together so that the "wrong" sides are facing outward. Meaning, that the pattern sides of the two pieces of fabric with will facing eachother. Pin along the marked lines on the fabric so your pieces will stay in place.
Now that you are at your machine make sure there is no width to your stitching and that the length is about an average well, length (around a 2.5 or 3 on a Bernina). When pushing your fabric threw the machine do not forget to back stitch to lock them in. Then cut your tails for cosmetic reasons and then take your seamed fabric to the ironing station/board.
Lay out your fabric so that the patterned sides are facing down on the board and spread your seam allowance down. Steam them out.
2. Curved Seam
Instead of drawing a straight line down the length of the fabric you will create a half circle that is "cut off" on the length of the fabric. To recreate this exact half circle on your second piece of fabric you will need to use waxing paper (not plain old wax paper, the kind that is used for marking) and place the paper between your pieces of fabric. Then use a tracing wheel to have the wax stick to the second piece of fabric.
Once you have an accurate trace if your half circle place them back to back as before with the plain seam so that the pattern sides are facing eachother. Make sure to mark one inch out from your marked circle and then cut along that line that has marked your seam allowance. Pin along your marked lines so your fabric will stay in place and so you will have a more accurate stitchline
When you are at your machine set it so you will have z-g-zag stitching and sew along your marked line (all the while taking your pins out, of course).
After you have back stitched and cut off your tails head over to the ironing station/board. Flip out your fabric so your pattern side is facing outward and then steam your fabric.
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